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After my initial rabbit recipe for BIB wines, I though it worth introducing an antithetical vegan dish. Szechuan (so on point) and really very easy, Mapo tofu is a Chinese classic. Tofu may at first seem bland but actually it is delicate like porcelain and lends well to these punchy (chillies) and very umami flavours (salted black beans). You can knock this up in about 10 minutes. Serve with sticky rice and pickled or fresh cucumbers and extra chilli oil for those who are properly serious about spicy food.
(Lapin a la Cocotte) Rabbit is actually pretty easy to get hold of these days, and word has it that in the countryside you can get them for free from over-burdened gamekeepers. Here in South East London, I easily bought a whole one, jointed, from our brilliant butchers just last week, in an unlikely spot off the Old Kent Road. Light, like chicken, but definitely falling in to the game category, these cotton-tail friends make a welcome autumnal alternative.